Double Jacket Cordage [ Background and history of the birth of the double jacket, and introduction of notable outfits and recommended models ].

The double jacket is attractive for its structured silhouette and stately appearance created by the deep beat. Originating as a practical item for the Royal Navy, it eventually became a standard dresswear item. In this issue, we trace the history of the double jacket and its modern incarnation, and introduce some of the most notable outfits and recommended models.

Origins of the Double JacketBorn as a military uniform for the Royal Navy in the 19th century, it was later sublimated to its current style on Savile Row!

The reefer jacket, known as the prototype for the Royal Navy’s P-coat and blazer, was created in the early 19th century. Initially, it was a practical item designed for functionality, using thick melton wool to withstand rough seas and a double-layer front to protect against cold winds.

In the mid-19th century, British yacht clubs and gentlemen’s clubs adopted the double blazer as their uniform, following the naval uniform. The regatta blazer, in particular, became the uniform of yacht clubs modeled after the naval uniform. The regatta blazer brought the neatness of military uniforms to the social scene and became a symbol of the unity and dignity of the upper class.

Photo: Heritage Image/Afro Navy cadet Prince Albert with Admiral Sir Lewis Beaumont, 1912. the future King George VI (1895-1902) served in the Navy from 1910 Until 1918, seeing action during World War I at the Battle of Jutland on board HMS ‘Collingwood’. A photograph from the “Illustrated London News: Coronation Record Number”, (London, 1937).

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Eventually, by the end of the 19th century, this became the urban suit style in London’s Savile Row. The three-dimensional chest, peaked lapels, and double buttoning accentuate the beauty and dignity of the male form. This was the turning point where clothes born of utility became clothes designed for dignity.

Photo: Mary Evans Picture Library/Afro

History of the Double JacketAt the turn of the 20th century, the double jacket went from a symbol of dignity to a symbol of prosperity

In the early 20th century, Savile Row created the double jacket style, which was adopted by the aristocracy, bankers, politicians, and other social It became a symbol of trust and responsibility for the urban gentleman.

From the 1930s to the 1950s, the style spread worldwide through the films of Hollywood’s golden age.The double suit worn by Humphrey Bogart, Cary Grant, and others in their films created the ideal image of the man who combines dignity and composure.

‘ Dead End (1937) Photo: Album/Afro HUMPHREY BOGART and JOEL MCCREA in DEAD END, 1937, directed by WILLIAM WYLER.

In the 1980s, the double jacket was once again in the limelight. Worn as power suits with exaggerated shoulders by the elite of the financial district on the wave of economic growth, they became a symbol of success and influence. It was also encouraged by the trend toward reevaluating the structured suit, led by Giorgio Armani. Around the world, the double jacket served as a symbol of prosperity, from the City in England, to Wall Street in the United States, to the bubble era in Japan.

Richard Gere wears a Giorgio Armani outfit in the movie ” American Gigolo ” (1980)

The double jacket todayAt the beginning of the 21st century, a variety of styles presented by different brands blossomed

In the 2010s, Classico Italian style became a major trend, with brands such as Lardini and TAGLIATORE In the 2010s, brands such as Lardini and TAGLIATORE introduced jackets that were both lightweight and slim-fitting with an unconstructed tailoring and a shaped waist, and double jackets followed this trend.

Fall/Winter 2015-16 Men’s Men’s Street Snap Pitti Womo
Photo: IMAXtree/Afro.

In the late 2010s and early 2020s, Balenciaga and Vetements introduced oversized double jackets that referenced 1980s power suits. The structure of the double jacket was reinterpreted in a modal context, with exaggerated shoulder forms and longer lengths.

Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2017 – Paris Collection – Runway, Men
Photo: IMAXtree/Afro.

And now, Lemaire, WALES BONNER, The Row, and others are taking the lead in proposing a minimalist, dignified double jacket that is different from the traditional powerful style. The new line is a departure from the forms that have been in the limelight in the fashion context, such as extreme shoulder padding and bold silhouettes, and has evolved into a basic design with a modern feel.

WALES BONNER Spring/Summer 2025 Collection Photo: launchmetrics/spotlight/afro

Here’s a look at some of the hottest coordinates!